September 14th/15th, I took two hikes in the Blackhead Range. The range lies in the far northeast of New York’s Catskill Mountains. I hadn’t planned on two hikes, it just turned out that way.
The first trek—the longer—took me over the range’s three main summits—Thomas Cole, Black Dome, and Blackhead, all nearly 4,000 feet high. There were things to enjoy along the way. I’ve always liked Catskill rock formations, which somehow are easy to imagine as the seabed they once were. The hike also involved some ridge-top flat stretches on soft carpets of pine needles. But the day did not offer views. From start to finish, the Blackhead Range was shrouded in wind-driven cloud. This was atmospheric but it meant I missed, on the flank of Blackhead, views that according to the Catskill Mountain Guide “are considered among the Catskills’ very best by knowledgeable hikers”.
At nine miles, amply filled with summits and saddles, rocks and roots, this out-and-back Blackhead traverse had been fairly strenuous, and I only committed myself to returning the next day in search of those best views after a long sleep and confirmation of a much-improved weather forecast.
My second trek was shorter and easier, a quick climb of Blackhead via Batavia Kill and a short descent to the ledges on its flank.
And what a difference a day makes! From those south- and west-facing ledges I felt I could see most of the Catskills, from the summits and notches traversed by the Devil’s Path in the middle distance to—far off—Slide Mountain, the Catskills’ highest peak.